Four Things to Remember in Alpine Climbing

Successfully completing an alpine climb is like obtaining a degree. First of all, you need to learn and practice a lot of different skills. Then you can combine them and test whether they can work in the real environment.

Sleeping

Carrying sleeping equipment in a day's climbing can be used as a precautionary measure. Due to the added weight and the fear of staying up late, it usually becomes a self-consolation act. Over a day of climbing, a camping bag, a lightweight sleeping bag, and a stove for snow are essential equipment. Whether you lie flat, cricket, or sit all night, the most important thing is to have a barrier between the body and the ground. The foam pad on the back of the backpack is a good cushion. If you choose to lie down, you can use the rope to cushion under the legs.

In cold weather or snow-covered areas, lightweight foam mattresses are worth carrying. Of course, the most reliable way to stay warm during the night out is to squeeze together with your partner, but most men prefer to freeze and rarely do so.

Some camping bags can be used as emergency shelters when windy and rainy. The key is to be light enough. (Compiler's note: Lifesaving aluminum film is also a good choice, small size, light weight, can withstand a certain harsh environment.)

decline

Unless you are climbing Chamonix's Aiguille du Midi, you can enjoy a fine meal and French light beer after reaching the top of the hill, and you have time to catch up with the next downhill cable car. Otherwise, the summit means that the battle has just completed half. Perhaps the other half is not the most difficult, and it is usually the most dangerous. You may feel tired and vigilant. The afternoon sunshine makes the valleys full of lava, and the surface of glaciers and snowfields also becomes soft. Accidents often occur when there is an oversight or misjudgment.

If rope drop is required, check the safety of each knot and anchor point. If there is a shortage of equipment, you can only use a single drop anchor, you need to do an unforced backup, and then let heavy people carry the backpack down (Figure 5). The above person pays attention to observing the stressed anchor point. If everything is normal, the person behind can safely remove the backup. However, try to keep more equipment. Just think about how much the equipment will change if you go wrong. When choosing a rope course, pay attention to sharp rock and turquoise stones on the route. Before the last person drops, make sure the rope does not get stuck when you draw the rope. When dropping a drawstring, notice the loose rock that may be carried down by the rope.

On snow slopes, be careful of the soft, sticky snow between the claw teeth and it will become hard and slippery over time. In this snow condition, it may be safer to remove the crampons and kick down the snow with boots. Be especially careful that due to changes in sunlight or warming caused by the glaciers, if you follow the morning's own footprints, the soft snow bridge may no longer bear your weight.

the weather

Bad weather is a nightmare for climbers to get out of it forever. Every time you start climbing, there is the possibility of storm attacks in the mountains. You should know how to deal with this rigorous test, and it would be better if you could avoid it.

High cirrus clouds, sometimes referred to as "horse tail clouds," are precursors to a typical storm, usually within 12-24 hours. Observing changes in barometric pressure using an altimeter can also help identify weather trends. High air pressure usually means stable weather, and rising or falling air pressure can cause wind and weather changes. Low pressure represents instability. Of course, the low pressure here refers to the relative change in the mountains.

Lightning is a nightmare in the mountains, and you can bake it as soon as you hit it. However, even touching nearby ground currents can have serious consequences, which can lead to heartbeats, muscle spasms, and even clothing that melts synthetic fibers causing burns. If the stone sings or sounds, it means lightning is coming. In order to protect yourself, you should choose the location that is as flat as possible. Be careful not to hide in the cave or under the rock, where the arc will burn you into a microwave oven. Sit or curl on your backpack and insulate it from the ground. In addition, you should remove metal objects on your body, such as protective equipment or hail, and so on (not to mention throwing them down), because metal objects will focus on electric currents to burn the body. Try to curl your body as much as possible to reduce the distance that the current may travel through your body. Only prayer is left.

Mind athletics

Alpine climbing is the competition of the mind, and fear is also filled with it. The mountains are full of awesome things and the potential for injury and even death. Proficient technology and good equipment can certainly reduce these dangers as much as possible, but it is more important than any technology and equipment that only a strong and rational mind can handle it. The great mountaineers, such as Anderl Heckmair, Walter Bonatti, and Riccardo Cassin are all living examples. These old guys climbed the incredible route with simple tools that can only be found in the barn. Do they feel scared? Most definitely. In the process of peaking? Certainly will - when they think the danger is too great, and it is possible to withdraw, they will turn down. All these people are still alive today. In the mountains, you should know when fear is normal, when it is abnormal, know how to deal with each situation, and never allow fear to grow into Zhanghuang or stupidity. We want to be such a person, we only have Can rely on such people.